Slightly Off-Beat San Francisco

San Francisco is one of only a handful of American cities where you can just walk around, drink in the culture, and know you are in a unique place. Europe is full of them but other than New York, New Orleans, San Fran and a few others that's it for America. The very first thing you should do in San Francisco is ride the cable cars. For a few dollars you can go all over the City. I like to start at the bottom of California Street right out from the Hyatt Embarcadero and ride over to Ghirardelli Square, then proceed back over to Union Square. You get panoramic views of the city and the Bay, in the open air with the clanging of the trainman's bell. Be sure to sit outside; preferably standing up hanging on to the rail—it's better than any amusement park ride in the world, though not for the faint of heart.

Also, don't neglect to walk around Union Square and its environs so as to enjoy all of the street people. San Francisco has the most intellectual performers in the world. They sit around reading Proust, discussing classical music, and, my personal favorite, putting on puppet shows like the kind they do in Indonesia, but using cardboard boxes. There are plenty of street musicians too.

Remember that San Francisco was the original beatnik and hippie Mecca, because that tradition lives on. Seek out the City Lights Bookstore [a hang out for Jack Kerouac and Alan Ginsberg; these guys were counter-culture long before the Jefferson Airplane hit town] (side note from Liat: I've been there! There are also pictures of Bob Dylan and awesome people of that nature). The bookstore is a little long in the tooth but you can still find some communist literature on the shelves. The selection is definitely not Borders.

The Rock, Alcatraz, is definitely worth the boat ride. Once inside you are taken back to those old black and white prison movies with James Cagney and Edward G. Robinson. When I visited they even had an old ex-con selling books about his life of crime and prison. Remember, don't look him in the eye.

As far as food goes anything in Chinatown is good; it is generally authentic [as far as American Chinese food goes]. My favorite in China town is Brandy Ho's [sort of near City Lights], but the best Chinese food is at Yank Sink, a dim sum house that is better than the ones I ate at while in Hong Kong. You should not miss this restaurant. Chinatown itself is fun, full of cheap and in some place nice souvenirs.

Don't forget Fisherman's Wharf, which can be sort of touristy but there is a lot going on there at any time of day. I was mooned by a male jogger mid-afternoon on a street crowded with pedestrians. Anything goes in San Francisco. There is also a WWII submarine and an old sailing boat you can tour. Both are pretty sweet. My daughter tells me that there is an old time game place right next door. She also mentioned the Castro (the gay district) for people watching. If you happen to be in town on gay pride day, go to the parade: your eyeballs will pop right out.

It is also nice to get out of town. A short drive over the Golden Gate Bridge [worth doing for itself] brings you to Muir Woods, the closest group of giant redwoods [well, at least the big ones]. The real giants are several hours drive up the coast toward Oregon, actually called the avenue of the giants. Have lunch in Sausalito for a beautiful view of the SF skyline.

San Francisco is truly a mellow California type of place. It is in the air there. When I am in New York I can feel the rush and vibrancy of the fast paced city. SF is just the opposite: laid back.