Rome

Rome is a magical city, but it's even more so when you go on the "inside track". Here are our favorite places to stay and eat in Rome. Please accept this disclaimer in advance, though: we didn't mention any of the usual tourist sites. Those you can find on your own in any guide book. We only focused on the little gems we have tried first-hand and liked.

Our favorite hotel hotel - very expensive but really outstanding - is Hotel de Russie near the Piazza del Poppolo, on Via del Dabuino; the phone number is 9 800 323 7500. It really is in a class by itself. Another good option is Hotel Scalinata di Spagna, right by the Spanish Steps; the phone number 06-6793006. However, this too is also very expensive. A more modest hotel with a superb location and a very Italian feel is La Residenza on Via Emilia, off Piazza Barberini and Via Veneto. It has a good Italian breakfast included in the price, and the rooms are comfortable but certainly not fancy.

One advantage of La Residenza and Scalinata is their proximity to the best Emilia Romana cuisine in Rome, from a restaurant called Colline Emiliane, which is also off Piazza Barberini on Via Avignonesi . The number here is 22 06-4817538. You must make reservations. It's very small and fills up within 15 minutes of opening. Outstanding Tortelini in brodo (consome with tortellini) and pasta bolognese, as well as good desserts. It's just superbly delicious.

Near the restaurant in the very same alley you can find a good fruit and vegetable shop and a terrific little supermarket (corner store, more like it) with great cold cuts, fresh bread daily, a reasonable cheese selection and other necessities such as sodas, toiletteries etc.

Our favorite Roman roasts are at La Campana, a place that has been open since the early 1600's or so. Fantastic antipasti table, great roast lamb, pork, chicken, superb Tiramisu (you'll have that and never go back to what they serve in the US). It's near Via Condotti - cross Corso from Condotti and keep walking, and it will be in a little alley on your left after about a 5 to 10 minute walk.

Agata & Romeo is newer Roman cuisine. It's a fashionable place (Clinton goes there) and the service is very good. Via Carlo Slberto, and the number is 45 06-4466115. Excellent Sformato.

La Rosetta is considered Rome's best seafood place. I'm not crazy about it but if you love seafood you might want to try. It's right near the Pantheon. Quinzi & Gabriali is the second most celebrated seafood restaurant in Rome, and we personally like it better than Rosetta. It's on Via Della Coppelle, and the number is 5-6 06-6879389.

The restaurant in the Hotel Lord Byron in the Borghese gardens is extremely romantic. Food is acceptable yet too pretentious but the ambiance is fabulous. The number is 06-3613041; the street is Via G. de Notaris 5

For great Roman Jewish food go to the Jewish Ghetto area, where you can find the uniquely flavorful Craciofi a la Giudaica, fried artichokes that are a specialty of the Roman Jews. If you're not a fan of artichokes you might still want to visit for the historical flavor of the place and the great Jewish bakery at the corner one street behind the big synagogue. You can also find interesting silver and gold works in tiny shops as you walk from the Jewish Ghetto to Campo Di Fiori, the bustling produce (and other stuff) market in the heart of Rome. As you approach it, don't forget to take a peek at the cookie bakery on your left. The cookies are fantastic and the huge mortadella that's permanently stationed by the door is worth a Kodak moment.

The best overall upscale dining is found (amazingly) at the Cavalieri Hilton at La Pergola. It's very far (40 minutes cab ride from center of town) but is worth it. Try to get a table by the window for the amazing views.

BEST ICE CREAM NOT TO BE MISSED is Giolitti, a gelateria that has been in the family for 107 years. It's off Piazza del Colonna. Everyone knows where it is. We go there at least once daily when in Rome. Do yourself a favor and don't miss it. Any flavor is superb. My favorites, besides chocolate, of course, are Cassata Siciliana and Mirtille (blueberry). Dick loves the coffee and lemon. In addition, they have very good pastries. Next door on the second floor there is an OK Roman restaurant as well , with the usual antipasti, very friendly waiters (accepting of families in particular), good roasts and breads. I often don't bother, though, and go straight for 10-12 ice cream flavors on the table at Giolitti . Sit down and enjoy. It's an experience. See if you can spot Signora Giolitti; she has an intensity about her, walks around straightening things out and just generally keeps a watchful eye on the place. She is terrific!

Best (and most expensive) shopping is on and around Via Condotti. They have the most fabulous cashmere in Italy and, of course, wonderful leather, but it's always pricy. There is also a super chocolate shop off Condotti and, if you like, a great sock shop for men called Gallo, also around that corner. They have been in business forever and have some cool socks.

A more modest area but an experience nonetheless is the weekend Flea Market in Travestere. You'll find anything and everything there, but be forewarned - it's extremely crowded.